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November 29
ALL BETS ARE OFF! Yesterday, I insisted I was going to Antigua. English
Harbor, I said. I was so happy at the end of the day yesterday because
after four days of fighting against the wind, I was able to move the boat far enough
south to turn west and let the current from the southeast (after 60 degrees
north) and the winds from the southeast carry me northwest to Antigua.
I had a sinking feeling when I spoke to Kathy Steward last night. I all
but bragged that I was now far enough south to run WITH the wind and
current to Antigua. Kathy said that I would not have to worry about winds
from the south or southeast pushing me north. Gulp? "But, I've spent the
LAST FOUR DAYS hauling oars south, expecting winds from the south or
southeast direction for the duration.
I awakened to have my worst fears confirmed. A lovely wind - 15 knots from
the northeast. I spent the morning rowing northwest toward Antigua.
What's the big deal you say? Hey, I've spent the last several weeks rowing
southwest while the wind blew from the southeast. This places the boat
sideways to the swell. It isn't good rowing. It isn't fun. Now, I was
rowing northwest with a wind from the northeast, still parallel to the
swell, only it was hitting me from a different side this time.
I dreaded the 12:15 phone call. I thought about it for hours. I waited
until 11:30 AM (EST) and tried calling Diane Stege. She
wasn't in. So I phoned Kathy Steward. My friends have plane reservations
for Antigua for Saturday. Ah, well, ah, um, "Houston we have a problem."
I told Kathy that I was really tired of rowing against and even sideways to
the wind. "If I row WITH the wind I could be in Guadeloupe as early as
Saturday." Kathy was a little quiet on the other end of the phone. As the
project accountant, I could hear the mega-dollar signs flashing through her
brain. 'Change the reservations? No seven-day advanced purchase? She
could land Saturday?' This was NOT good news. Trooper that she is, Kathy
told me that I needed to do whatever was necessary to reach land as quickly
and safely as possible. (It sounded a little practiced, like telling a
teenager who just wrecked the family car that you still love them.)
Then I called Christophe Hebert in France. Christophe was preparing to
leave for Antigua. I told Christophe about the change of wind. He told
me he was not surprised and that he would leave for Guadeloupe in the
morning. He did not have seven day advanced purchase tickets.
Here it is. I THINK I am going to land in Guadeloupe. I might land as
early as this weekend. But if my friends can't make it until Sunday
afternoon, I will row slowly. If you haven't figured it out by now,
landing a rowboat is not an exact science. Just remember, "It ain't over
till the bow touches land."
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